Jomsom-Muktinath Journey in Mustang region (Nepal)

As the Dushherra Holidays started from 25th September, we prepared for the best Travel destination of Nepal, that is, the Mustang region. This region is just south of Tibet, and resembles like, a cold desert, as they say. We had dreams of this journey since past one & a half year, we had been in Nepal.

So, we traveled to Pokhara by road, and from Pokhara, we had air tickets for Jomsom. Jomsom is the capital and administration headquarters of Mustang district, which stretches from the Tibetan border to Ghasa.The Kali Gandakie river passes between two eight thousanders, Mt Annapurna and Mt Dhaulagiri.

The flight was in a small Dornier Aircraft of "Yeti Airlines". It seats only 18 people. The cockpit is open and I seated myself just behind the cockpit.

(A view of the cockpit)


(Ariel view of Pokhara below)

The plane ride from Pokhara to Jomsom keeps everyone on the edge of their seats. The little plane flies in the gorges between huge himalayan cliffs gaining altitude steadily in order to reach high station Jomsom. On this ride you get to see first hand how really high the himalayas cliffs are. Tiny villages rest on hilltops of smaller cliffs. Each of the villages are so isolated that its at least three days walk to the nearest town that has a motor able road. The Himalayas also trap the monsoon clouds from getting to Tibet. Here, you get a first hand view of what that means. The Cliffs clearly rise much above the cloud cover. As a result the lower Himalaya is green and water rich sending all the water back to India while Tibet on the other side has eroded to be a dry plateau. From the cockpit view is the Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest mountain in the world (8167m or 26795 ft).

(A view of the Anapurna range from within the cockpit)


(Another scintillating view of the Himalayas)


(Below is the first view of the Mustang region of Nepal)

The landing strip at Jomsom Airport is very dangerous as the tiny Aircraft somehow squeezes it's way through icy Mountains. At one point of time, it appears that the plane would dash against one of these Mountains.

(The landing strip below)

(Me, with a security personnel, at the Jomsom Airport)


(Shristi & Sumona at the Jomsom Airport)


(The Dornier which took us safely to Jomsom)

From Jomsom you can enjoy the views of the Nilgiri peaks as well as Dhaulagiri, the sixth highest mountain in the world. Most of the hotels, along this trek route, are run by people of the Thakali tribes. They are mostly found in the mountainous regions between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Jomsom is the last Thakali village.

(Exterior view of our Hotel at Jomsom)

(Interior view of the Hotel)

Jomsom is also the starting point for many interesting treks like the Kagbeni, Marpha, Muktinath and Mustang treks. The Jomsom Trek is known for splendid mountain views and some of the best trekking hotels are found on this route. Our Agenda was to travel (read, no trek) to Muktinath Temple. So, wasting no time, we started for the Journey. We did knew that there were some jeep-services for Muktinath. But for that, we had to trek for 20 minutes from Hotel to the jeep-stand. But, before leaving Jomsom, you need to pay an eco-tax, which is Rs 400/- per person, for Saarc country tourists.

(Sumona & Shristi on the small-trek)

(The Nilgiri Mountain on the way)

It is roughly 15 kms distance between Jomsom & Muktinath. It takes a full day (8 hours) to trek one-way, if you are healthy, I mean. At an altitude of 3500 + meters, it is not that easy. So, we took a Jeep. The fare for Saarc country tourist is Rs 350/- per person, one way. Quite cheap, if you compare the physical strain & agony, that you save.

(The counter at the jeep-stand)


(The God-sent Jeep)

This trek is interesting for the change in terrain as you climb higher. The higher altitudes around Jomsom are marked by sparse vegetation and dry climate while the lower regions near Pokhara are lush green terraced hillsides. As you go higher, you will notice a remarkable change in the culture of the local populace. The inhabitants of the lower regions are Hindus while those in the upper mountainous regions are Buddhists. People who live in the highest regions of Nepal seem more Tibetan than Nepali.

(The route)

Tall mountains line up on both sides of the "Kali-Gandaki" river bed. Walking here, there are very few thoughts in the head and all you have to do is watch path ahead. The huge mountains stand quietly in the distance.

The trail ahead leads to Eklaibatti, Kagbeni and all the way to Mustang.

(Professional photographers-cum-trekkers)


(Hard-core Trekkers, unlike us)


Mountains of contrasting shades of colors & sizes.

The landscape is truly marvelous. It is much better than what a camera can capture.

The scenery on this side of the Himalayas, was so different. It didn't take long before we could see all the old ancient villages down below. There was an abandoned settlement with caves above them. They are meant to be around 2700 years old. They also say that the caves go up to nine stories in height.

Sumona & Myself.



Going solo, for a change.



Our driver, a competent one, who took us from an altitude of 2800 mts to 3800 mts, a distance of 15 kms, in one & a half hours.

The risky road, motor able only by 4-wheel-drive-jeep and a 8-pack-guts-crazy driver !

Below, is a small village called Kagbeni. They grow crops mainly Grain, lettuce and apples. Kagbeni is a windy little village. Strong cold wind blows continuously all day.

The Lunar Landscape.

The valley ahead further leads to Mustang, the forbidden region. The permit to trek in this region costs $700 . Further up is tibet.

The town of Ranipuwa. Elevation 3710 meters.

This is the farthest spot our Jeep could take us. From here, you need to trek for another one hour to reach Muktinath Temple, while ascending for another 150 meters.

We found a easier option. Chartered Motorcycles were available for Rs 300/- per person (both ways) to take us to the sacred Temple. We grabbed the easier option.

(Sumona & Shristi on motorcycles)


(Ticket-counter at Muktinath)

The last-leg of our Journey towards the sacred Temple, without using legs !

Finally, the entrance of the Temple.

Muktinath means Mukti (Salvation). It holds a grate significance for all spiritual people in the south Asian sub continent. Muktinath (the provider of salvation) has been one such holy site, where thousands of devotees flock for attaining the much sought after moksha.

(The first view of the holy Temple)


The usual sight at any Hindu Temple.

The Hindus call the sacred place Mukti Kshetra, which literally means the "place of salvation". It is also one of the 51 Sakthi peetams. The Buddhists call it Chumig Gyatsa, which in Tibetan means 'Hundred Waters'. For Tibetan Buddhists Muktinath-Chumig Gyatsa is a very important place of Dakinis, goddesses known as Sky Dancers and one of the 24 Tantric places.

Muktinath is of the religious importance to both Hindus and Buddhists. The main shrine of Muktinath is a pagoda - shaped temple dedicated to the Lord Vishnu. In the walls around it are 108 waterspouts. The Jwala Mai temple near by has a spring and an eternal flame fed by natural gas. It is believed that one should visit this temple after completing pilgrimage of four special religious sites in India . That is "Chardham Yatra". Once Pilgrimage journey made to this holy Muktinath, holy dip in the Kunda and bath beneath of 108 Dhara is believed to bring about salvation (Moksha).

(Shristi at the 108 water-spouts)

In Hindu astrology, there are 12 zodiac or Rashi and 9 planets or Graha, giving a total of 108 combination. Also there are 27 Lunar mansions or Nakshatras which are divided in 4 quarters or Padas each giving a combination of 108 Padas in total.

(Me at the same spot)


(Sumona)


Buddhist monks.

The central shrine of Muktinath-Chumig Gyatsa is considered one of the eight most sacred shrines for Hindu Vaishnavas known as Svayam Vyakta Ksetras, the other seven being Srirangam, Srimushnam, Tirupati, Naimisharanya, Totadri, Pushkar and Badrinath. The temple is very small. The Idol is of gold and is tall enough to compare with a man.

Photography inside the Holy Temple is strictly prohibited. Below, is the image of the deity which is produced from the postcards available outside the Temple.

There is an old Buddhist monk present in the temple. The worship is conducted by Buddhist nuns.

The Majestic Temple.



The Temple though small, has some enigma & mystery about it.

At 3.00 P.M, we decided to leave the Temple premises. On our way down to the Jeep stand, we found unique solar-cooker being used by the Locals.

Here there are Shaligrams found everywhere. The Shaligrams are specifically described as fossil-stones which have taken shape in the Gandaki-river, and as characterized by the presence of discus marks . The legend, related at length tells us that Gandaki, the lady-devotee, performed penances for long years, and that she got a boon from God Vishnu, which made God Vishnu reside in her womb (in her depths) as her own offspring; the Shaligram-stones are thus the forms of God Vishnu. Like the worship of God Shiva in the form of a lingam, the worship of God Vishnu in the shape of a Shaligram is an iconic in character. Shaligrams are always naturally found in the river Gandaki.

(Shaligrams on sale at Muktinath)

(Sumona & Shristi looking at the curios)


(Locals waiting for the Jeep)


The Himalayas nearby.





There are other trekking routes from Muktinath as well.



We all waited for almost one hour to get a jeep back to Jomsom.



The Journey downhill.

In the evening, the Himalayas were looking more daunting and intimidating.

The out-of-the-world-Lunar-Landscape !



The menacing & scary Himalayas.

At 5.15 P.M, we reached a spot, where we came across a jeep coming from the opposite direction. Neither of the drivers were in a mood to give some space to the other, due to the obvious reason. It took some 15 minutes to navigate the spot.

A shepherd on his way back home.



We reached safely back to our Hotel at Jomsom.

The Next day was our free day at Jomsom. We had time to idle. So, we settled to find-out more about Jomsom.

(Mount Nilgiri, at morning, at Jomsom)


(Shristi & Sumona buying fresh Apples)


(The dry & unique Himalayas at Jomsom)


(Just opposite to it, are the Nilgiri & Dhaulagiri)


(Sumona & Shristi)


(Me & Sumona)


(Shristi going solo)




(The Jomsom town)




(Sumona & Shristi at Jomsom)






(Sumona & Shristi, on the banks of Kali-Gandaki River, at Jomsom)


(Me, at the same spot)


(Shristi, looking pretty)


So, that was Jomsom - a very pretty small town.



Next day, we boarded a flight back to Pokhara, at 10 A.M. Following are some of the snaps taken from inside the plane.



















After 20 minutes, we were back to Pokhara.

I loved the whole experience of travelling in the Himalaya. I haven't seen such vast spaces or such high mountains before.

I have met people on this trip who regularly return to Nepal to see the various parts of the Himalaya. This is definitely, the number one trekking destination in the world. For me, there is lots more to be explored in this region, its going to take more trips. Please feel free to email me at mesanyal at gmail dot com for any details.

If you have found the information here useful or enjoyed reading this travelogue, please do leave a comment to let us know that you have visited ( Click on the comment link ). Thanks for dropping by.

Devojit & Sumona.